The art of French Dressing Style

Style

The art of French Dressing Style

1 Comment 19 February 2010

Je ne sais quoi. What is it that French women have and the rest of the world attempts to copy? Catherine Deneuve had it, dressed in a little black chambermaid’s dress with her hair in a loose chignon. Dominique Sand had it, with her brows plucked thin and her barely there lipstick posed in a perma-pout. Charlotte Gainsbourg has it right now, wearing little more than a raincoat and jeans. It’s CHIC — that strangely plain yet highly studied casual look that condemns American women to looking forever overdressed. .

Lord knows we try — packing our striped Breton T-shirts for a trip to Avignon and religiously buying French shoes, makeup and perfume in duty free on the way home. But somewhere in the mix that deft restraint and Parisian subtlety gets lost. American style is about the big statement (or several big statements) lavishly endowed into one outfit. Even the classic models at Calvin Klein and Michael Kors are too glossy by French standards, with the shoe, the bag and the hair all competing for their own glory.

French style is always a matter of less. I know this because I have dressed badly in Paris seven times in a row. Sitting in the Café Flore in 1989 I died of shame as the local girls tittered at my sequin beret and garish fishnet stockings. Lesson No. 1 about French dressing: Sexy style is a sneaky affair, nothing blatant will do. Many years and many fishnets later I strolled through the Marais in a very plain black dress, only to discover then the French vixen was baring her back in sheer singlets and loosely cut floral dresses, basking her behind in the spotlight of soft linen yoga pants.

The look was more Bilitis than Britney, more body skimming than body revealing, and ultimately it was both sensual and sympathetic to many different shapes and ages. Impressed, I set forth to distill the essence of French fashion sense, so apparently effortless yet refined and regimented by centuries of practice.

Law No. 1: DECLUTTER
Even if a French woman is wearing a striped top, red shoes, three bangles and jeans she will strive to unify all the elements into a seamless whole. The stripes and the jeans will be a neutral color, the bangles will be bone or cocoa. The French love cocoa and pale honey straw as wardrobe coordinates; they allow accessories to float on a basic canvas and blend a look together.

Law No. 2: DECONSTRUCT
All clothes bar your suit and your classic white blouse must look supple, not starched. And that goes for hair as well. A silky blowout or a simple twisted chignon flatter your face and look sleek yet romantic. Highlights are never harsh and makeup borders on bland. For a good example of French restraint look at Clarins models and Princess Caroline of Monaco. Theirs are looks that melt into one golden natural glow.

Law No. 3: DELIGHT
Despite the fixation with natural and neutral tones,every French woman wears one flirty item: high heels, a leather skirt, a skim of black eyeliner, a choker. The trick is just one item — never two — and that’s the hard part.

Law No. 4: INVEST
A Vuitton bag, a Hermes scarf, a pair of Charles Jourdan heels, diamond earrings…these classics remain the cornerstone of a chic wardrobe no matter your age. The young wear them with jeans and espadrilles, the older with pencil skirts and cashmere sweaters cut low. Kept in immaculate condition, a French woman will wear her Kelly bag for life and simply change the clothes around it.

Law No. 5: BE BOLD
Pleasure in being a woman is the philosophy of French dressing. It begins with lingerie (silk, please) and includes such simple details as an art deco brooch or pair of lace stockings. Dressing to flatter your body and investing in well-cut basics allow for eccentric touches. Find what you love and make it your signature. For couture diva Sonia Rykiel it’s a cloud of red hair; for street chic Agnes B. it’s a sleek cropped leather jacket. For you it might be long flowing hair and short velvet gloves.

Law No. 6: BE DISCREET
Less is so much more! Less clashing color, less blush, less hair gel, less baubles, less ruffles, much less fur — but one ravishing perfume, French of course.

Law No.7: BE GROOMED
Clothes must be immaculately kept. The same goes for hair and makeup. Very glossy hair in a simple ponytail looks better than a structured updo. Eyebrows plucked to perfection lessen the need for heavy eyeshadow and mascara.

Law No. 8: BEDAZZLE
Ironic but true, the beauty parlor is essential to “natural” French style. Facials, hair treatments, endless massage (to keep legs forever in mini skirts) and cellulite balms are all standard practice. Manicure weekly, but choose red nails for holiday only.

FRENCH FASHION ESSENTIALS

  1. A great white blouse
  2. A navy blue pea coat cut to the hip
  3. Tall black boots
  4. A midi length black pencil skirt
  5. Black kid gloves
  6. Acres of cable knit cashmere in cocoa and honey
  7. A studded domino bag or striped tank
  8. Red high heels
  9. A wrap dress in black jersey
  10. A pirate shirt with embroidered sleeves worn with a waistcoat
Top 10 Fashion Don’ts

Style

Top 10 Fashion Don’ts

No Comments 12 February 2010

What not to wear this year

Some people look good in white cowboy boots with fringe—Chloe Sevigny and the Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, perhaps. Some people pluck their eyebrows to a thin wisp and resemble Carole Lombard—Drew Barrymore on a good day. Some people even look all right in beige leather pants—Giselle Bundchen, and only her. But these people are the lucky exceptions.

Fashion don’ts exist to protect us from ourselves. They help to stop a trend before it becomes a fashion virus or to officially bury a look that has exhausted its charms. Women ought to consider themselves lucky. We are no longer obliged to wear step-in corsets, rock-hard beehives and pencil skirts to the office. Clothes don’t limit our movement or mold our bodies in the way that they used to, but there are certain standards of modern elegance that are in timely need of question.

My don’t list is not proscriptive, it’s provocative. Just imagine a week without blow-drying your hair or donning a thong. Sweet liberty! Picture yourself finally disposing of the hipster pants that made your bottom look like a squashed doughnut. Sweet Lord! Trends have become so prevalent and so well promoted that women forget to question them or even consider what suits them anymore.

I’ve known since I was 13 that I look hideous in jeans. Resistant to peer pressure, I’ve never bought a pair. Pear-shaped women need A-line skirts and that is just one of the reasons that one lady’s classic look is another’s fashion fiasco. Look at your body, look at the list and then just say no to the clothes and beauty trends that are making you look fatter, older or just plain sillier than you need to.

Ten whopping great fashion don’ts:

1. Killer shoes: Sarah Jessica Parker swears by her Monolo Blahniks. The Sex and the City shoe is a pointy sling-back with a thin, shaft-like heel that now punctures every sidewalk on the country. Trouble is, these are spring shoes. Wear them with a cocktail dress in May. Forget them in the snow, in the rain and in the office. This spring the flat is back and thank goodness. Only Barbie has an in-step arch that high.

2. Tortured blow-outs: Super flat, poker-straight hair looks aging on anyone over 23. It’s “wedding hair” and a ‘do that looks “done”, especially on girls who are naturally curly. The damage of drying hair at high heat daily or literally ironing it out with chemical straighteners and weird salon processes isn’t worth the dollars. Try something looser, wavier and altogether more natural. Straight hair is so darn serious!

3. Lab coat whites: The white knee-length overcoat needs to go back to Mary Tyler Moore’s closet. Prissy, starchy and almost impossible to match, this Princess piece has been popular with movie stars on the red carpet. From a distance they look like bathrobes. Wedding day only!

4. Sticky pouts: If small insects get stuck on your lip gloss, it’s time to lighten up. Pop stars with gooey gobs have given the gloss trend a bad name. Blend a lighter beeswax-based Chapstick with your favorite lipstick for sheer color coverage that is sensuous but not sleazy.

5. Plucked-bare brows: Skinny eyebrows were huge in the early ’90s. Linda Evangelista had curving arches higher than Ronald McDonald’s but she had expert makeup artists filling in the gaps between lid and brow bone. Last year the skinny brow returned with a 1930s twist. Teamed with Marcel waves and cherry-red lipstick, the new naked brow had gangster moll charm.

Worn by Maggie Gyllenhaal and other ingenues the no-brow looks winsome. On the rest of us thirty-something mortals—under office light, or with a hangover, or a tight pony tail and a light frown—well, it’s just much less pretty. Be wise, go bright-eyed and bushy browed.

6. Frumpy cardigan jackets: Who came up with those long sweater jackets with hoods that sag down over the knees and belt at the waist with a long strip of woven wooly fabric? I want to slap them. This is maternity wear, or ski-bunny wear or something to run naked to the bathroom in the middle of the night in. But it’s not one bit flattering!

7. Skirts with pants: One barely needs to explain the sin here. Californian art teachers, models without bottoms and Bjork are permitted this combo, but only them. If your legs are cold, crochet some leg warmers and wear them over a sexy high-heeled boot. Deliberately crafty looking clothes look best on tall wafty blondes, everyone else should approach with caution.

8. Pants with heels: Let the fashion editors of Manhattan take me out and shoot me, but I am done with the ‘trouser leg sprouting a towering spiky heel at its cuff’ phenomenon. What is the point of wearing $700 Jimmy Choo or Gucci boots and concealing them beneath your jeans or tweed pants? Conversely, what is the logic of wearing pants for comfort and killer heels for glamour (and pain)? Something’s gotta give. Try cowboy boots or T-bar Mary Janes instead.

9. The wrong thong: G-string underwear used to be the provenance of strippers, gymnasts and Italian movie stars. Now your daughter and your Mom are wearing them. This is lingerie guilty of too much information. Peeking over trouser waistbands they look trampy. Visible under a tight skirt they look too skimpy. Great-grandma had a better idea: If you want to avoid visible panty line, try a silk camisole or simply opt for looser clothing altogether. Anything that’s tight enough or sheer enough to show the elastic of your knickers isn’t really fashion. It’s cruelty.

10. Blonde highlights: When spring comes a million heads across the country bob up adorned with silver foils. The cost of being artificially sun-kissed is high and the results are not always that divine. If you want to look like a TV anchor woman…go blonde. But if you want to really stand out, try a richer variation of your natural shade. Blondes don’t always have more fun.


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